Just as the family automobile requires periodic service, so too, do today’s output devices, including printers, document feeders and finishers. To ensure peak printer performance and maximum device availability, two factors are essential: using genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer parts and expertise in determining exactly which parts need replacement. Providing dealers and self-repairers with genuine Lexmark parts and support is crucial, especially as unauthorized parts become increasingly common and cause more problems than they aim to prevent, because of high failure rates. Read the full story here.
January 23, 2012
Market Point helps repair shops maintain profitability by avoiding cut-rate aftermarket parts that lead to expensive repair bills.
Posted by marketpoint under Lexmark, Uncategorized | Tags: fusers, Lexmark, Market Point, printer parts, Printer supplies, toner |Leave a Comment
January 18, 2012
For Print Quality Issues Toner Cartridge is Suspect Number One
Posted by marketpoint under Lexmark, Uncategorized | Tags: Brian Ude, cartridges, fix printer, Lexmark printer, Lexmark toner, Market Point, paper jam, poor print quality, toner, toner leak |Leave a Comment
For any print quality issue the first check should be the toner cartridge, especially if the cartridge is compatible or refurbished in a Lexmark printer. Any cartridge other than a brand name Lexmark OEM or Lexmark re-manufactured cartridge is suspect number one, even for some jamming problems.
Be on the look out
When you open the bag the cartridge is shipped in, watch for excess toner in the bottom of the bag and on the cartridge. If you find loose toner in either of these places put the cartridge back in the bag and locate another because, if you use it in that condition it’s going to leak toner inside your printer. The toner will pile up on the inside causing smudges and streaks, pages folded at one or both leading corners, and eventually jamming at the entrance to the fuser. Not to mention the print quality issues you’ll experience.
Here’s what happens
Under the cartridge, the toner will coat the Transfer Roller and show up as grey on the back of prints, and/or inefficient image transfer to the paper from the image drum in the cartridge. This appears as light print and/or skipped/missing toner on the front of the page. If the cartridge is leaking, toner will pile up on either end of the Transfer Roller which can affect electrical connection and/or get into the Main and Image Drive gears and High Voltage Power Supply.
Steps to take
I first print the Menus Page. Then take a fresh, unused page from a tray and compare. This makes it real easy to see grey background front and back. I take the cartridge out and look at the image drum for excess toner anywhere on the cartridge or burn marks where the high voltage is arcing through the image roller, that kind of thing. I push down on the top flap and look for the same thing.
Remove and inspect the Charge Roller. Look for excess toner, marking or scarring. These will cause spots and what looks like scratches on the printed page. Take a Q-tip with whatever cleaner you want to use and clean the electrical contacts for the charge and transfer rollers.
After the toner cartridge, transfer roller, and charge roller have been removed use a toner vacuum to clean up the inside of the printer. Using the vacuum keeps more toner from dropping down onto the High Voltage Power Supply below. With the right attachments you can get into the little nooks and crannies.
Reinstall the rollers and cartridge and print the menus page or whatever test page you like to use for comparison. Use the fresh page to see if there has been any improvement with the background. After the menus page I like to print PCL fonts for the images printed to the extreme right side of the page. I want to make sure those print clearly. And there are five pages to make sure multi-page documents will print correctly.
Good luck and keep that vacuum handy.
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Brian Ude is a certified printer technician with years of experience. Brian serves Western Office (www.western-office.com) in Billings, Montana. If you have a question for Brian regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics you would like more information on, please post a comment on this blog or send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
December 29, 2011
Troubleshooting Lexmark T63X Printhead Errors
Posted by marketpoint under Lexmark, Uncategorized | Tags: 931-935 printhead error, Cover open switch, Lexmark printer troubleshooting, Lexmark T63X troubleshooting, printhead, printhead error |1 Comment
The Lexmark T63X series printers sometimes come up with 931-935 printhead errors that are not always caused by a defective printhead, but can actually be caused by a defective cover open switch. However, this is not mentioned in the Lexmark service manual.
This is the kind of problem that could cause many repeat service calls for a technician. The error may not be related to the printhead and many times you will not see the problem when you’re onsite servicing the printer.
After replacing the printhead, the printer will run fine, which was probably an intermittent problem to start with. After running a few hundred successful test pages you’d think that the problem is solved.
A few days later, you may get a call from your customer telling you that the problem has returned. You figure that it may possibly be a system board or a defective replacement printhead, so you change out one or both and printer works fine again. All is well.
Then, two weeks later, that dreaded call comes in again. Printhead error! Now what? Change out another printhead? A system board? An interconnect board? Cables?
No way! Not yet.
First, check the cover open switch located on the upper hinge on the left side.

Make sure that the tab on the left corner of the toner is making proper contact with the lever on the microswitch so that when the toner door is closed it tells the printer that there is a toner inserted. The lever on the switch (pictured)

either comes loose or gets bent back due to the upper cover being closed hard, or repeatedly, over time. This cover open switch is similar in design to the switch used in other T series printers, but the switch on the T63X series is not as robust as on the other models.
So what can happen in the T63X series when the printer is running, there will be some slight outward pressure pushing back on the front cover, which will move the switch lever ever so slightly and cause it to open electrically without the cover ever being opened. When this happens during mid-print, the printer will throw a printhead error instead of a cover open/insert toner message. Obviously, this is confusing when you think you’re troubleshooting a printhead error.
We have found that the best way to confirm proper operation of this switch is to check to see exactly where, in the travel of the closing of the front cover, this switch engages.

When the printer is powered up with toner installed and the display reads “close door or insert cartridge”, hold the cover open latch in and slowly close the cover. The message should change when the cover is about one inch away from closing.

If the message does not change until the cover is all the way closed, this switch may be the cause of the printhead error.
To repair the switch the front cover needs to be removed.

so you can make sure the switch is screwed in securely. It may have just come loose.

If you notice that the lever on the switch is bent you can manipulate the lever very carefully with small needle-nose pliers so that it activates sooner.

If the lever or switch is broken, you’ll need to replace the cover close cable, part # 56P1395.
This problem can happen with any of the T series printers, but this particular problem has been seen more with the T63X series due to the design of the switch and the switch lever itself.
Hopefully, this information will help you out when you have an intermittent printhead error that keeps coming back. Usually, solid printhead errors are caused by the printhead, system board, or an occasional defective printhead cable, (which is not very common).
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Ron Marquez is a Lexmark certified printer technician and Depot Manager at Market Point. If you have a question regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics for which you would like more information, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
December 15, 2011
HP Color LaserJet 3000, 3600, 3800, and CP3505 “Cartridges Not Engaged 10.92.YY” Error
Posted by marketpoint under HP, Printer Tech Support Articles, Uncategorized | Tags: 10.92.YY Error, Bill Raymond, Error Codes, HP 3000, HP 3600, HP 3800, HP CP3505, HP Printer Cartridges Not Engaged Error, hp printer troubleshooting, Kevin Gumpp, Market Point, printer error, Troubleshooting Tips |Leave a Comment
The 10.92.YY Cartridge Not Engaged error is one of the more common error codes found on the HP 3000 series Color LaserJet machines. The good thing is that it’s one of the easier problems to diagnose. The bad news is that usually one or more of the cartridge lock levers or a slide lever is broken or one of the cams above is broken. Like the swing plate gear in the 4200 series HP LaserJets, the lock levers in this machine were never meant to be replaced. In this article, I’ll talk about the error, troubleshooting the error, and replacing the lock levers.
How the Cartridge Engage Process Works
As the transfer unit opens the cartridge lock levers (four on either side of the machine) move up into the machine. When the transfer unit closes the cartridge lock levers clamp down on the sides of the cartridges and hold it in place. On the right and left side, the lock slide levers moves up as the door/transfer assembly closes and down as the door/transfer assembly opens. When the right white slide lever moves up it engages the cartridge drive motor assemblies by pushing the black cartridge drive gears left so they mesh with the gears on the cartridge. Also, four white tabs on the right slide lever push on the back of the cartridge shutters moving them out of the way and exposing the drums. The lock levers are attached to the slide levers with springs. If any of these parts are broken or processes don’t happen then a cartridge not engaged error can result.
Alright, that’s how the process works. Now let’s move on to the troubleshooting part.
Troubleshooting the 10.92.YY Cartridges Not Engaged Error
YY Description:
00 Black
01 Cyan0
02 Magenta
03 Yellow
This legend gives us a better idea of where to look to resolve the error, but I recommend you check over the whole area to make sure you’re getting all the right parts. In my experience I’ve always had multiple parts break at the same time so I make sure I go over the whole thing before I order parts.
First thing to try is reseating the toner cartridges.
While reseating the toner cartridges pay attention to the ease of how they go in and out. The lock levers should move up when the transfer assembly opens and lower when the transfer assembly closes. If everything seems fine and reseating the cartridges doesn’t resolve the issue, remove them and watch the lock levers as you open and close the transfer assembly. The lock levers actually move with the transfer assembly so if you remove the transfer assembly you can leave the door open and move the transfer assembly holders up and down so the door doesn’t obscure watching the lock levers. If none of the lock levers move on a side or if you don’t feel any tension then one of the cams is most likely broken. The lock slide levers should move fluidly with some resistance due to the springs on the actual lock levers. If there is no tension, feels awkward to move, or you hear a loud clicking sound then something is probably broke in the cam assembly or slide lever.
Switch the cartridges
If everything is moving the way it should and you can’t see anything wrong then switch the cartridges. For instance, if the black slot is giving you the “cartridge not engaged” error then switch it out with the magenta cartridge to see if the problem follows the cartridge or stays with the slot. If it follows the cartridge then replace the cartridge and see if it continues.
The lock levers
If one or more of the lock levers doesn’t move then either part of the lock lever slide is broke or the lock levers themselves are broken. The lock levers on the right side have been updated and come in a pack of four. If these are not moving I would order the repair kit, right slide lever and right side cam. These parts are extremely complicated to remove so I would just order the parts and plan on replacing them all at the same time rather than taking it apart several times to check the parts individually. The parts on the left side remove with only a little disassembly so it’s in your best interest to just remove the High Voltage Power Supply and check all the parts to make sure you’re getting everything you need.
Verify the cartridge gears and shutters are being engaged.
If the cartridge gears or shutters are not being engaged then either the right side cam, right slide lever, or Main Drive Assembly (MDA) should be examined.
Note to printer users: If you have read through the troubleshoot procedure and believe you have a lock lever and slide lever problem I would strongly recommend you call your service technician. Repair, especially on the right side, can be an extremely complicated procedure and requires the skills of a trained professional.
Removing the Lock Levers and Assemblies on the Left side
Upper Fuser Cover
1. Gently remove the output bin by pulling up and towards you.

2. Open the upper cover and then squeeze the two blue fuser-locking levers to release the fuser.

Pull up on the fuser to remove it from the printer.
3. Support the upper cover and remove four screws. One is longer than the other three mounting screws. Make sure to replace this screw in the correct location when installing the upper cover.

4. Lift up slightly on the right of the upper cover and disconnect the purple wire connector.

5. Lift the upper cover to remove it.
Left Side Cover
1. Open the front cover.
2. Remove two screws; one on the back side and one in the middle of the left side bottom.

3. Use a flat blade screwdriver to release the three locking tabs at the front of the left cover.
4. Release the locking tab at the upper front of the left cover.

5. Release the two locking tabs at the rear of the left cover.

6. Gently move the back of the cover away from the printer and then slide the cover to the rear to disengage the two front locking tabs and release the cover.

Rear Lower Cover

1. Carefully flex the hinge bracket until you can dislodge the hinge pin. Move the rear lower cover away from the bracket to remove it.

2. Remove one screw and then remove the hinge bracket.

Rear Upper Cover
Note: I’m not covering the right side cover because if you remove the formatter and release the tabs in the back right cover you can remove the rear upper cover without removing it.
1. Remove right rear hinge cover
2. Release the cover by removing 10 screws.

High Voltage Power Supply
1. Disconnect two Flat Flexible Cables (FFCs) on the DC controller.

2. Remove four screws and then disconnect two connectors on the top of the HVPS.

3. Release seven locking tabs and then remove the high-voltage power supply.

High Voltage Contact Assembly
1. Remove 3 screws on the left side and one screw on top in the front cavity of the machine.

2. Release the four black tabs; 1 top, 1 bottom, and two on the left side and pull the assembly toward the back of the machine and out.

3. Once the contact assembly is out the four lock levers, slide lever, and cam assembly are all exposed and easily removed.
Note: The black lock lever is different than the three colors so if you need to order all four make sure you are getting the correct part.
Left Lever lock: RC1-6633, 3 needed
Left upper Lever lock: RC1-7618, 1 needed
Left Slide Lever: RC1-6636, 1 needed
Left Cam slide: RC1-6638, 1 needed
Right Side Cartridge Lever Replacement
1. Remove toner and transfer belt.
2. Remove top cover and disconnect purple wire.

3. Remove right side cover. Be careful not to lose the metal arm that connects to the power switch lever.
4. Remove interlock switch, unplug cable at drive PCA

5. Disconnect Main DriveAssembly (MDA) cables from driver pca and move them out of the way.

6. Remove one screw from the bottom cable harness and remove the cable

7. Remove six screws from theMDAand gently remove it.

8. Remove two screws from the slide level asm.

9. Disconnect link arm and push down slide lever, remove lever and springs.

10. Reverse steps, check gear alignment and main drive asm gear alignment.

Before Reinstalling the MDA
Make sure the toner cam gears are aligned properly before installing the main drive assembly.
- The four large gears should be in an approximate line.

- The top two large gears have an oval hole that aligns with a triangle stamped into the sheet metal.

- The two small gears to the right align with the three large bottom gears. Notice the two holes on each of the small gears align with the small holes of the large gears.

NOTE: If this procedure has been properly followed, in the back of the printer, you will see the four white cams that control the movement of developers.

On the top and bottom shafts you can see a black plastic part that has a flag associated with it. The top flag is for the black cartridge. The bottom flag is for all the color cartridges.

Top flag Bottom flag
Also, note that the white cams are all at different degrees of rotation. This reduces the force required to drive the motors when turning the cams. Metal shafts should be oriented with the empty space downwards.

2. Turn theMDAover so the six white gears and four black cartridge drive gears are facing you. Have the two white gears on top and the four black cartridge gears on bottom. The four white posts on the cartridge gear assembly should all be moved clockwise to the right side of the cartridge gears for easy installation with the slide lever. Lines etched in the metal should help. The post should be sitting at around a 1 to 2 O’clock position.
3. The two white gears on top control the four white gears below them. The right gear controls the black cartridge gear and the left controls the three colors gears. Just to the right of the four gears are holes in the metal frame of theMDA. Holes in the gears inside the unit coincide with these holes in the frame. By rotating the two gears on top of the unit you can align the holes in the gears with the holes in the frame if they are not already aligned.

4. Carefully install theMDAback into the machine. When you get it installed you might want to manually lower and raise the white slide lever a few times to make sure it’s engaging the toner drive gears before you reinstall all the other parts.

Note: If you get everything put back in place and your prints come out with parts of the color missing, mis-aligned, or it makes a lot of noise, the toner cam gears are probably mis-aligned and disassembly will probably be needed.
Main drive assembly RM1-2751
Cam, slide, right RC1-6645
Lever, lock slide, right RC1-6643
Repair kit: 4 right lock levers, 4 springs and instructions Q5982-67925.
Conclusion About the 10.92.YY Cartridge Not Engaged Error Message.
While this error can be easy to diagnose it can become a very complicated and frustrating repair. The main thing I can say here is to take your time and follow the instructions. Read through everything first so you know what you’re getting into. The first one I did I took theMDAapart resulting in purchasing another one and I didn’t know about the toner cam gears so I had to disassemble the machine again after my first repair to get them aligned correctly. It ended up taking a lot longer than what it should have. Hopefully with more articles out there like this one people will have better chances of getting it right the first time.
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Kevin Gumpp is a certified printer technician and freelance writer for Market Point. Photos and descriptions by Bill Raymond, a certified printer technician at Market Point. If you have a question regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics for which you would like more information, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
October 10, 2011
Tips to Help Your Service Provider Help You
Posted by marketpoint under HP, Lexmark, Printer Tech Support Articles, Uncategorized | Tags: HP, Kevin Gumpp, Lexmark, Market Point, printer errors, printer repair, printer service |[2] Comments
If you’re the one in your company who everyone calls when a printer is down or having a problem or if you’re the one who manages your printer service provider, here are some tips to help make the whole process easier!
Remember, your goals and your service provider’s goals are basically the same: quick response, professional business practices, reasonable rates, and getting the printer back up and running on the first visit whenever possible. With a little upfront information you can make sure that every service call goes smoothly and trouble-free.
One of the most important things that you can do to help ensure repair of your printer is done quickly and efficiently is to provide your printer service provider with all the necessary information upfront, before they hit your front door. It will help them to make sure they bring the right parts and/or tools with them on the first visit and avoid having to make a return trip. This simple step will go a long way in developing a good relationship with your service provider and improving your outcomes.
Before Placing a Call
Probably the most important step in making sure a service call goes as planned is preparing a little information to have available before placing the call to your service provider.
1. Make and Model of the machine.
For example: HP LaserJet 8150. Some companies have specific technicians designated to work on particular makes and models of printers. Knowing the make and model of the printer in need of repair will make sure you get the right tech for the job, the right parts are sent with the service tech, and if questions arise when the tech arrives at your location about what printer needs servicing, the technician will have the information.
If your printer has a service provider label with an ID number on it, make sure you also supply that number. With that information the service provider can go back and check the printer’s history to see if this is an on-going issue or if, perhaps, the printer is in need of preventive maintenance (PM).
2. Have contact information available.
This is really important! I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve arrived on-site at a large company between 11:00AM and 2:00PM to find that my contact is out to lunch, leaving the receptionist and myself scratching our heads, trying to figure out which printer needs servicing. A main contact and secondary contact, with phone numbers, should be provided at the time of your call, as well as your company name and address. If you’re with a large company, a department location and a detailed note at the receptionist’s desk can go a long way toward avoiding unnecessary delays. If your company has multiple locations make sure you tell your service provider at which location to find the printer. Finally, office hours should be mentioned. I’ve arrived on-site more than a few times just to be confronted with an out to lunch sign or to be told that the business is closing in five minutes so the service appointment will need to be rescheduled.
3. Know the problem the machine is having.
If the printer has an error code, write it down. For example: HP 8150 with a 51 service error. 51 service errors are typically laser errors so if your service provider has a laser unit for the machine they can make sure to send one with the technician.
If the printer has an image quality problem, make sure you try a replacement toner cartridge first. Fifty to 75% of image problems are toner issues. Taking five minutes to try a new toner cartridge might save you unnecessary service expenses. If it’s not possible to replace the toner or if replacing the toner doesn’t fix the problem make sure you keep a print example by the machine for when the technician arrives. I’ve been on several service calls where the problem wasn’t visible or couldn’t be replicated when I got there. An example is always very helpful in determining what could be the cause.
If you’re having problems with paper jamming, again an example would be helpful in determining what and where to look for problems. If the machines doesn’t work or gets little usage it might help to leave the jam inside the machine.
Inform your service provider about the importance of the printer to your business. I wouldn’t say, “come out when you have some free time” if this is a critical or even routinely used printer. You might not see your technician for a week or two. But I would let them know if it’s your payroll machine and your checks need to be run in the next day or two. Nothing is more frustrating to a service company who is focused on providing great customer service than to have an upset customer due to a misunderstanding about the priority status of a service need.
4. Communication
It might be best to designate one employee to handle all of your service requests. Most offices have several printers and not all equipment is handled by the same service provider. You can avoid calling the wrong service provider by having one person responsible (with one back up person, of course) to make the call. This will help to avoid unnecessary service expenses too. Plus it helps strengthen the relationship between your company and your service provider by establishing a familiar line of communication between two people.
After the Call has been Placed
Once a customer places a call there are a few more simple steps that you can make to be sure the printer is ready for the technician when s/he arrives to repair the machine:
1. Make sure the company receptionist is aware that a call for service has been made and that a technician will be arriving to work on a machine in the office. Inform them of the printer’s location and the contact’s information.
2. Make sure the printer hasn’t become a new shelving unit in somebody’s office. The machine should be cleaned off, plugged in, have paper in the paper tray, and have room for a technician to move it around. I’ve often walked into cluttered offices with mounds of paperwork stacked up on top of or in front of the machine making work impossible until the area is cleaned off.
3. Leave examples showing the print problems by the machine. Possibly put a post-it note on the machine to notify people that a call has been placed so they don’t accidentally call your service provider again and place a duplicate service request.
Once the Technician Arrives
1. Greet the technician and show them to the problem machine.
2. Try to answer his or her questions to the best of your knowledge.
3. If there are any rules or procedures the technician must follow while working at your company, inform them.
4. Ask if they need anything or if there’s anything you can do to help them.
5. If you work in a different area, make sure they know how to get in touch with you.
6. If you want to make sure you don’t invest too much money to fix the printer, inform the technician before s/he starts to work on the equipment to avoid an uncomfortable moment once they hand over the bill.
Before the Technician Leaves
1. Ask about the repair, if they noticed anything that might need attention soon, and if there are any tips they can give you to maintain the printer and hopefully avoid more service calls.
2. Ask if they have labeled the machine, and what kind of warranty is included in the service they performed today, in case you need to call back.
3. If they have to return ask for an estimated time and, once again, notify fellow employees of the expected return to avoid another service request on a machine that’s already waiting on parts.
4. Make sure the equipment is working the way you expect it to.
5. If you’re a first time customer or handle your accounts with CODs, make sure you have all the necessary information ready. It might not seem important, but it can really mess up a technician’s schedule when s/he has to wait after the repair is complete to receive a check or credit card information or when the person in charge is unavailable to handle the payment.
After the Technician Leaves
Not much to say here, other than please make sure you hand over the billing to accounting for payment. Prompt payment always helps in establishing a good relationship with your service provider. Just like tipping your waiter, bell boy, or hotel room staff. The more quickly you pay, typically the better service and benefits you get.
Conclusion
By following these few helpful tips when calling in for service you can greatly enhance your relationship with your service provider and speed along the repair of your office equipment. It might seem like a lot of information but really it should only take about 10 to 15 minutes to make sure all the information is gathered and make sure fellow employees know that a call has been placed and to expect a service technician in the next hour or two or in the next day or two. Again, I can’t stress enough how following these few simple tips can make a technician feel comfortable in your work place and make them want to continue giving you the very best service possible because of the trouble free, informative environment you have created.
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Kevin Gumpp is a certified printer technician and freelance writer for Market Point. If you have a question for Kevin regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics you would like more information on, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
October 3, 2011
Troubleshooting Lexmark 4069 Fusers – Part 1
Posted by marketpoint under Lexmark, Printer Tech Support Articles, Uncategorized | Tags: 4069 printer, 49 service error, 900 error codes, 99a0144, 99a0158, 99a0159, 99a0160, 99a0173, 99a0263, 99a0725, 99a0833, 99a0919, 99a1520, 99a1521, 99a1549, 99a1553, 99a1585, 99a1598, 99a1621, 99a1631, 99a1649, 99a1661, 99a1868, 99a1902, 99a1969, 99a1977, Brian Ude, Error Codes, Lexmark, Optra S, Optra T, T23, T610, T612, T614, T616, T61x, t63x, T64X, t65x, Troubleshooting Tips |1 Comment
In my previous post I wrote about Lexmark T-Series fusers in general. Now I’ll get more specific. In this post I’ll try to provide some, hopefully interesting, observances about individual model idiosyncrasies, challenges and opportunities.
Remember, I’m not trying to tell anybody how to troubleshoot. Nor am I claiming that all the information contained here is gospel. This is just some stuff I’ve noticed, experienced and talked with other techs about over the years. It’s information that’s worked for me. I hope it works for you.
At the outset I’d like to say that Lexmark fusers are ‘complicated simplicity’. I said in the last post that Lexmark hasn’t changed much of the basic design since the Optra S. That’s the ‘simplicity’. The ‘complicated’ enters the picture with the number of little variations within each model according the Type Number.
Let’s begin our fuser journey with the Lexmark T61x. This is ‘engine number’ 4069. Specifically 4069-xxx. Included in this series are 13 different models: two T610s; two T612s: five T614s; two T616s; and two T23s. Each of these has two (2) 220v and two (2) 110v versions. That’s a grand total of 52.
Confused? Overwhelmed? I was too until I realized that the main thing to look at is the last three letter/number combination of the “Type Number’. For example; T610 = 4069-010 or T614nl = 4069-41l. So when referring to the fuser parts drawings you need to pay particular attention to those last three numbers. Here’s page one of the fuser parts from the manual. Note the highlighted portions in the ‘Description’.
4069-XXX
Asm-
Index Part # Units Description
12-1 99A1977 1 Fuser Assembly w/115V 875W Lamp
414/616/41b/41l/41n/61n
12-1 99A1585 1 Fuser Assembly w/220V 875W Lamp
414/616/41b/41l/41n/61n
12-1 99A1969 1 Fuser Assembly w115V 550W Lamp
010/212/01n/21n/23v/23e
12-1 99A1661 1 Fuser Assembly w220V 550W Lamp
010/212/01n/21n
12-2 99A0725 1 Wiper Assembly, Wet
12-3 99A1603 1 Cover, Fuser Assembly with Thermistor,Thermal Fuse,
and LH & RH Fuser Lamp Contact Assemblies
12-4 99A0263 4 Screw, Contact Assembly PP
12-5 99A1631 1 Exit Roll Assembly
12-6 99A1520 1 Gear, Upper Redrive
12-7 99A0833 1 Detack Assembly
12-8 99A1521 1 Hot Roll, 010/212/41b/41e/41l/21n/01n/23v/23e
12-8 99A1549 1 Hot Roll, 414/616/61n
12-9 99A0159 2 Spacer, Back Up Roll 010/212/01n/21n/23v/23e
12-10 99A1621 2 Bearing, BUR
12-11 99A0173 1 Solenoid Assembly, Envelope Conditioner
12-12 99A0263 1 Screw, Solenoid Mounting PP
12-13 99A0263 1 Screw, Board Cover Mounting PP
12-14 99A0160 1 Backup Roll, 22 mm
010/212/41b/41e/41l/01n/21n/23v/23e
12-14 99A0158 1 Backup Roll, CBM 28 mm 414/616/61n
12-15 99A1598 1 Shield, Fuser Board
12-16 99A0144 2 Retainer, Backup Roll Bearing
12-17 99A1553 1 Board Assembly, Fuser
010/212/414/616/01n/21n/61n/23v/23e
12-17 99A1868 1 Board Assembly, Fuser 41b/41e/41l
12-18 99A1649 2 Screw, Fuser Mounting
12-19 99A1902 2 Standoff, Fuser Control Board
12-20 99A0919 1 Standoff, Fuser Control Board
Some of these parts appear to be interchangeable when compared visually. But trust me, they’re not; at least over time. Notice the different lamp wattages; one 550w and one 875w. That’s 325 watts difference. If you rebuild one of these fusers and swap the lamps it will be noticeable over time.
A 550w lamp in an 875w machine eventually causes excess, unused toner to accumulate on the hot roll resulting in a print quality issue that will probably cause you to replace the fuser earlier than it should have been. It may also result in Error Codes 920, 921, 922 or 925. The end user will get one of these codes, power off then on and possibly reset the error, only to get a different error code later on. By they way, all 900 error codes are fatal. The printer is down until it resets or gets repaired.
An 875w lamp in a 550w machine will cause excessive paper curl. The amount of curl will also depend on the paper used. Most notable curl will be on thicker paper like cardstock. Labels will be a real messy problem. Labels that get peeled off the backing get stuck to the holl roll and collect toner. The hot roll is done. I’ve rarely been successful removing a label from the fuser once it’s cooked to the hot roll.
Which is a perfect segue to the hot roll. Notice the different part numbers. In a previous post one of my collegues talked about OEM versus 3rd party or generic parts. If you’ve re-built these fusers you know what I’m getting at. The Lexmark T61x has two different hot rolls. These rollers are constructed with materials to match the wattage of the lamp, print speed and media types of a specific machine(s). If you match the OEM part number exactly, the fuser will have the proper lifetime, and satisfy Lexmark’s conditions for parts and materials.
Many of the “one size fits all” vendors list one part number that can be used in all models with the same “engine” number like the one we’re discussing here, 4069. And those hot rolls will work. I’ve used them for years to keep the cost of re-building reasonable. I’ve also done my own unscientific research on these kinds of fuser parts. And while it may not be consistent and may not always affect the fuser life significantly, it does have an effect.
Another part to watch for with these fusers is the backup roll (lower pressure roller). The differences between the 22mm (99A0160) and the 28mm (99A0158) is a lot more obvious, however, than most of the other parts. It’s real hard to mistake one for the other. But I’ve done it, all the way to completing the re-build, only to remove the wedges and find that the hot roll doesn’t even touch the backup roll. Oops, try again. So pay attention. There is not only a difference in size, but a difference in weight. Now I try to make it a habit to take the old roller with me to get the new one. The weight will help determine whether you’ve chosen the right roller from the bin.
Believe it or not, nothing I’ve talked about so far has addressed the most significant design feature of the 4069 series. That feature would be the electrical plugs on the front of the fuser. This was Lexmark’s attempt at ‘modular’ construction. It didn’t last. With the next two ‘engine’ series, 4060-5xx/7xx (T63x) and 4061-xx0 (T64x), Lexmark went back to the tried and true Lexmark formula. With the 4062-xxx (T65x), Lexmark has, in my opinion, gotten to a workable modular fuser design.
The 4069 design has some real interesting ‘opportunities’ associated with these plugs. For instance, the screws that hold the fuser in place are captive. So when the fuser is removed the screws stay with the fuser. That is unless the forks that hold the screws captive get even slightly bent. So, if the tech isn’t examining the fuser as it comes out of the printer the screws could come loose. Or, if one gets a little over-zealous removing the screws he could end up taking the screw completely out of the forks, damaging the threads in the process. And they’re big hex-head slotted screws just to add yet another type of screwdriver techs need to have on hand for Lexmark printers.
Let’s not forget the plugs themselves. They don’t always align themselves properly with the installed receptacles. So when replacing the fuser in the printer you need to pay close attention. You have to ‘feel’ it into place. Make sure the screws line up with the holes and that the fuser sits flat on its bottom. Then you can’t just screw it in. That has led to bent pins and, believe it or not, a bent fuser frame. Start one screw then start the other. Go back and forth like that until both screws are fully installed. A colleague of mine, while in a hurry, didn’t follow this back-and-forth procedure and bent a couple of the pins in one of the plugs. That’s one of those goof-ups you try to hide from your shop mates to avoid hearing about it for next decade or so.
We also had a real hard time replacing lost or damaged screws (Fuser Mounting Screw 99A1649). Market Point carries them and I did find another supplier in Salt Lake City that had a few they were willing to sell if we purchased additional parts as well. Everybody else said their techs had some but they weren’t for sale.
Of course the new electrical design required a new fuser cover, lamp contact assemblies, thermistor and thermal fuse. All encompassed in one part number, 99A1603. Make sure your vendor knows you expect to get all of those parts with that number. Other than Lexmark, I don’t have a vendor that carries that part as described in the manual. I can get covers, and was provided alternate, proprietary numbers for the thermistor and thermal fuse. But the lamp contact assemblies remain illusive. So when those have degraded past useful I send the fuser in as a core for a vendor re-furbished fuser.
Now for the electronic boards: there are two in the T61x series, 99A1553 and 99A1868. If you examine the parts list carefully and match board to model the rhyme and reason gets lost. This exercise usually leaves me dizzy. The bulb wattage makes sense: 550 watt bulb for the 20ppm models and the 875 watt for the 35ppm machine. No problem. But the boards aren’t arranged using the same logic. So, my suggestion (harping?) is to make sure you match that last 3 number/letter combination with the part number you need.
You might also notice that the T614n is listed twice with discrepancies for both models. The first is 4069-41e for which there is no bulb number listed. The other number, 4069-41n has no board number listed. I’ve figured it’s a typo and used the parts for the alternate fuser and haven’t experienced any insurmountable problems. So, 4069-41n bulb in the 4069-41e and the 41e board in the 41n.
Yup. Dizzy again. Now, just to add to the confusion I’ve created so far…
Remember I said earlier that the T61x was part of ‘engine’ 4069. The second and final part of this series is the 4069-5xx/7xx (T62x). There are only 8 models in this series. I am currently gathering the information necessary to provide some insight into this series. My research so far has presented some very interesting insights and revelations. I may even need to revise some of the information provided in this post. If so, I’ll highlight it to bring it to your attention. Stay tuned!
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Brian Ude is a certified printer technician with years of experience. Brian serves Western Office (www.western-office.com) in Billings, Montana. If you have a question for Brian regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics you would like more information on, please post a comment on this blog or send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
September 6, 2011
HP P4014 and P4015 Printer Common Issues
Posted by marketpoint under HP, Uncategorized | Tags: Firmware, fuser, HP, HP 4200, hp fuser, HP P4014, HP printer, Kevin Gumpp, Market Point, P4015 |[2] Comments
The HP P4014 and P4015 printer model offers the same great quality we’re used to when we think of the 4000 series printers produced by HP. These machines offer fast print speeds, high print volumes, few service calls, and inexpensive parts making repairs cost effective for customers. In this article I’ll point out a few of the minor problems with the 4014 and 4015 models, discuss a little about the differences between the two models, and why end users, techs, and sales representatives should be cautious when making buying decisions.
Slow Start
Unfortunately, these printers were first introduced at the time of the stock market crash in 2008 and 2009. Companies were downsizing. Large companies found themselves with extra printers or budgets that didn’t justify replacing a printer when their old faithful 4200 or 4250 could be repaired for a third of the cost of a new machine. And the market became flooded, and still is, with slightly used 4200 and 4250′s with low page counts that look brand new and are available at a low cost.
I’ve found that many large companies like the fact that they have several printers that use the same toner cartridges, making ordering and supplying more efficient. When they can find an almost new printer that matches their existing machines, which they already know are great, they see little point in upgrading given the noticeable decline in the quality of new machines in the market place. With that said, this year with the economy rebounding (at least until recently) and a lot of the older 4000, 4100, and 4200 series models reaching the half million mark or more, companies are ready to upgrade. We’ve seen a steady rise in printer sales and it’s noticeable when I walk into service customers. I’ve seen a lot of new HP P4014 and 4015′s in the field.
Which to Buy
When your customer is ready to buy a new printer, which machine should you sell? There are really only two differences between the 4014 and 4015; the price and the fact that the 4015 accepts high yield cartridges.
The P4014 sells for around $600 and the P4015 for $1200. At first glance, one would think the P4014 sounds like the better deal. Six hundred dollars is a big difference and HP, like every other manufacturer, knows most buyers are all about the satisfaction of thinking they’re getting the best deal. Of course, lowest purchase price is not always the best deal. Let’s do the math.
The 10,000 yield standard HP cartridge sells for around $170, averaging 1.7 cents per copy. The 24,000 high yield HP cartridge at $300 averages 1.25 cents per copy for a net difference of 0.0045 cents. As you can see, the P4015, which can accommodate a high yield cartridge then costs about half a cent less per page to run. Doesn’t sound like that much right? Wrong!
If you multiply the difference in purchase price ($600) by the difference in per page print cost (.0045 cents) you get 133,333. What does that number mean? It means that after 133,333 pages your HP P4015 has saved the company $600 dollars over the P4014. The printer has just paid for its higher cost. At 266,666 pages, the company has saved another $600. The printer has just paid for itself.
When buying a new HP P4014 or P4015, consider the amount of pages you plan on printing. Most customers replacing their worn out HP 4000, 4100, or 4200 series have about half a million or more pages on their existing equipment. If your customer plans on using the new printer for 5 to 10 years and will print somewhere around a half million pages or more, it makes sense to spend a little more up front and save on supplies costs over the long run. On the other hand, if your customer feels they need a high speed, big printer but will only print four or five pages a day, then recommend the HP P4014.
Something to think about
I have a customer that has purchased about 25 of the P4014′s to replace their old 4000′s, which have a million pages printed. At the same time, they are cutting company costs by cutting hours of their employees. I’m not going to do the math here but when you think about that, many machines printing that many pages at a loss of a half cent per page the number is huge. Probably not the best business decision. It’s your job to help your customers when buying new products so do your research first and then decide on the best option for their situation. Help your customer to see the bigger picture and not necessarily base their purchase decision on the printer’s acquisition price alone.
Common Issues with the HP P4014 and P4015
Noise
One thing I will point out is that this machine is noisy. About 10 or11 years ago, one of HP’s selling points was that their printers were so quiet. They even bothered putting decibel ratings on the box. I guess noise quality was substituted for speed. I don’t really know how much quicker we need these printers to print so maybe in the near future they can once again focus on some noise issues.
Perform User Maintenance|
Here’s the problem; your customer calls you to perform a PM on the machine per the maintenance message. You go out to perform the PM, clean the machine, pack up your bag, fill out your paper work, and after a few test pages go to reset the counter. You hold down the check button during the memory cycle and no Maintenance Counter Reset. What’s going on? It’s a firmware issue. If you update the firmware you should be good to go. If you’re unable to update the firmware you can roll back the maintenance counter manually. But because these printers have gone through several firmware updates, the customer should be notified that the update couldn’t be performed and they should do the update at their earliest convenience.
Processing Job Message
Here’s the problem; your customer calls you and tells you that their printer is constantly saying “processing print job” or their machine is printing extremely slowly. Your first thought is they are having a network, cable, or driver issue. After discovering that this happens even on internal test pages you think formatter or DC controller. The dead give away here is tray 1. Typically this only happens when printing from tray 2. So if you run into this issue try loading tray 1 (MP tray) and see if that works correctly. If it does then we know we have a DC controller/fuser problem. Why does tray 1 work on not tray 2? Tray 1 prints at half the speed of tray 2. The error is a result of a power and timing issue between the fuser and DC controller. Generally, as fusers age, they draw slightly more power and take a little more time to warm up to the correct temp. Given the error situation it seems the fuser temp is just outside its printing temp as the DC controller tries to print putting the machine in a continues loop. Tray 1 works because it prints more slowly allowing the fuser to reach it correct temp before the DC controller starts other processes in the machine. Replacing the fuser should fix the issue but there is also an upgrade to the firmware on the DC controller so both should be done at the same time.
Swing Plate
The swing plate assembly has been updated from previous models giving customers and tech’s some relief in the fact that, hopefully, this issue will be resolved. I, personally, haven’t run into any issues with the swing plate in these models but I have heard others complaining about the issue. The good thing is that the reported problems have been on machines with large page counts. At this point the complaints are so few that it’s hard to justify making this a common issue just yet. However, it is something to keep an eye on and keep in the back of your head when customers call about noise issues.
Conclusion
The HP P4014 and P4015 model was introduced at an inopportune time, but with the market recovering and older printers needing to be replaced, this machine should be an obvious choice for those considering new machines. This machine has very few problems, most of which were firmware issues. New printers being sold right now have the firmware updates already in them so those issues are a thing of the past.
I look at this printer like I do the Brother fax 4100e, 4750 or other HP 4000 printer series models; a machine I can put in a customer’s office and walk away from with confidence that in a few years from now when I ask them about the machines performance they will thank me over and over again for a dependable fast machine with very few problems other than general maintenance issues. My only warning here is to sell the right model for the job. Prepare yourself with questions to ask like print volumes and stats to show your customer why the more expensive machine will save them money in the long run.
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Kevin Gumpp is a certified printer technician and freelance writer for Market Point. If you have a question for Kevin regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics you would like more information on, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
August 9, 2011
Tips and Tricks for Troubleshooting and Installing Lexmark T Series Fusers
Posted by marketpoint under Lexmark, Printer Tech Support Articles, Uncategorized | Tags: fuser, Fuser Wiper, Lexmark, Lexmark tips, Optra S, Optra T, printer problems, Printers, T630, T632, T634, T640, T650, Troubleshooting Tips |[3] Comments
Information is the Key
It’s important to be familiar with each model of Lexmark printer that you maintain or repair. Study and compare the fuser drawings and you’ll find many of the design elements are the same. However, differences in print speed require different lamps, backup (pressure) roller sizes, heat roller construction, thermal fuses, and thermisters. And although the lamp contact assemblies are basically the same, their installation can vary widely. Notice also that some fuser elements vary within a given model according to the Printer Type Number (last 3 digits after the engine number found inside the front cover). These differences are important for image quality, and therefore, customer satisfaction. If there’s enough design deviation the result will be a 920 series Service Error Code. If not, the result will be service calls to adjust paper and fuser settings, dissatisfied customers and a shortened fuser life.
Lexmark Service Bulletins are an excellent source of information. For example, Bulletin #T65x 114 has good information on accordion type jams inside the fuser. I’ve included the section “Changing the type of fuser unit installed (T65x and X65x Series printers only) below. If you’re an Authorized Service Provider (ASP) Lexmark will email service bulletins to you directly. If you’re not an ASP they are available, on a limited basis, at the “Support/Download” part of Lexmark’s website. Also, check this blog and others like it, these experts should have this stuff memorized.
The following paragraphs are intended for your information.
They contain little things I’ve learned over the years on the job and from other techs. There is no intention, implied or otherwise, to try to tell anyone how to troubleshoot or repair any printer. I think there is some good information that worked for me at one time or another and hopefully it’ll work for you.
Tip 1
Under the Fuser Wick Assembly Cover you’ll find either the Wet Wiper Assembly (early models; T52x through T62x) or the Fuser Wiper Cavity Cover (later models: T63x and later). If the Wet Wiper Assembly isn’t replaced regularly it becomes caked with excessive toner and causes scratches on the heat roller. The Fuser Wiper Cavity Cover is ‘permanent’ so it’s not dependent on end-user replacement. Also, on the Fuser Wick Assembly Cover you’ll see tabs to hold the fuser wiper; brackets, if you will, designed to assist in the removal of the fuser wiper and avoid burns. I usually break them off as cleanly as possible (once the printer is out of warranty, of course). They will, over time, become very brittle and break on their own from the heating and cooling of the fuser during normal operation and from end user replacement of the cloth variety fuser wiper. Once they break, they end up on the heat roller causing scratches and/or in the fuser causing backup (pressure) roller damage and paper jams.
I mention the Wiper Assembly and Cavity Cover not only because they are causes for fuser damage but also because most end-users don’t realize there are 3 types: wet wiper and cavity cover discussed above; oil, for regular one sided labels; and wax, for duplex label printing.
These are the part numbers for the various wipers:
56P1423-WIPER ASM,FUSER,T63X
56P2109-WIPER ASM,FUSER,T63X,WAX
56P1415-WIPER ASM,FUSER,T63X,WET
40X0120-WIPER ASM,FUSER,T64X,T65X,BLANK
40X2665-WIPER ASM,FUSER,T64X,T65X,OIL
40X2666-WIPER ASM,FUSER,T64X,T65X,WAX
So before your next ‘print quality issue’ service call, go to the Lexmark website, click on Support and Downloads, then Tech Library, then Manuals and Guides (or just click here). Type Label and Cardstock Guide in the ‘filter’ box. Click the ‘filter’ button and print that guide. You and your customer will be glad you did.
Tip 2
When you receive a fuser check a few things:
- Check that the pressure wedges are in place. These are essential for Lexmark fuser storage. Without them even a brand new OEM fuser will have developed a flat spot on the backup roller that will make the printer sound like it’s about to come apart. Be sure to remove them before installation.
- Make sure the Narrow Media and Exit Sensors are functional, that the springs haven’t dislodged or the flag gotten pressed into the Lower Exit Guide Assembly.
- Ensure the internal wires are installed correctly, and that all the connectors, both internal and external, are firmly plugged in. And don’t forget the Fuser Guide Assembly at the front of the fuser. It needs to be straight.
And speaking of the Fuser Guide Assembly, this little gem will get caked on either side with excess toner. A telltale sign is a top corner of the printed pages being folded over. Many times you can remove the fuser, knock off the baked on toner pile with a small flat blade screw driver and the problem is solved. Look at the entire guide while the fuser is out and take off any other toner piles you might find along the other ridges.
This guide may also become warped, so check to make sure it’s installed correctly and that it’s straight. Look for a rise in the middle as this can cause accordion type jams in the fuser. And if any print jobs include stickers/labels, a warped guide condition makes it easier for the sticker to come off the backing paper and stick to the heat roller making a real mess.
The Fuser Guide Assembly is easy to replace without dismantling the entire fuser, if you’re careful. Prior to removal, make sure you have the right guide as a replacement (99A0713 for the Lexmark S series and 99A1591 for the Lexmark T Series). There are different styles and part numbers, so be sure you have the correct part before proceeding. If you’re not certain, remove the warped guide to compare the shape and mounting prong locations just to be sure.
To remove, just lift up in the middle and one side or the other will come loose of the mounting holes in the frame. If it doesn’t break, slide that side along the frame toward the front of the fuser. The other side will follow. To install a new guide, simply place one end in the mounting holes and lift up gently to slide it into place.
Tip 3
That thumping noise? It’s the pressure roller – almost every time, unless the customer is printing envelopes. When the printer starts to thump or make what has been described as a “galloping noise” you can almost bet that the fuser backup (lower pressure) roller has developed one or more flat spots. There is no cure for this but to replace the fuser (part numbers 56P2542 FUSER ASM,T630/T632; 56P2545-FUSER ASM,T634). Usually print quality isn’t an issue, at first. The most common complaint I’ve experienced is about the noise. However, if left unattended the results can be paper jams at the re-drive assembly, or incomplete fusing and toner smearing, or squeaking from improper fuser bearing wear. Many times the customer doesn’t even notice until you put a good fuser in and the noise stops. “It’s made that noise for as long as I’ve been here.” Now you’re a hero.
For the T630 and T640 series specifically, the heat roller can be an indicator for the need to replace the fuser. When the heat roller in these models turns blue, order another fuser because it’s going to start causing print quality issues soon. First it turns blue, then you’ll notice black spots that look like it’s been burned. Then the clear coating will start to peal off. When that happens, toner will build up on those places and cause print quality issues. Once again, the only fix is a new fuser.
Last Tip
It’s important to me to inform the end user how to remove a jam from the fuser. Flags get broken or damaged pulling paper the wrong way. Show them how to remove the back door (not the re-drive assembly) and where to look for paper. If they can get a hold of the paper, fine. But if they can’t, stress the need to call a service tech. It’s at that point the damage to the fuser will occur if they don’t. It’s been my experience that most people will recognize the difficulty involved in fuser paper jam removal and call before they do anything.
Also demonstrate why they should never take the toner cartridge out and pull the paper towards the front of the machine to remove it. Fuser Exit and Narrow Media Sensors are most often damaged by this action. Many times they can be fixed or replaced if you know how to disassemble and rebuild Lexmark fusers. But most of the time it’s easier and more efficient to replace the fuser.
Lexmark Bulletin T65x 114
I’ve included a portion of Lexmark Bulletin T65x 114 here. If you’ve ever filled out Lexmark Warranty info online you’ll no doubt remember seeing a choice of Type 1 or Type 2 fusers. I had no idea what the difference was. When I questioned my colleagues I was told to order the Type 1. It’s the most common and what they have always done. Well, now I have the definition and the reason why “That’s the way it’s always been done.”
Changing the type of fuser unit installed (T65x and X65x Series printers only)
If the jamming issues continue after replacing the fuser unit, installing a ‘Type 2′ fuser may help correct the issue. A ‘Type 2′ fuser unit uses detack fingers that come into contact with the fuser hot roll. This helps to prevent paper from sticking to the roller surface.
IMPORTANT! This option should be avoided whenever possible and used only in a case of last resort. The ‘Type 2′ fuser life is approximately half that of a standard ‘Type 1′ fuser unit (150,000 pages for a ‘Type 2′ fuser, versus 300,000 pages for a ‘Type 1′ fuser). In addition, the fuser maintenance counter will need to be adjusted so the printer maintenance messages display at 150,000 page intervals.
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Brian Ude is a certified printer technician with years of experience. Brian serves Western Office (www.western-office.com) in Billings, Montana. If you have a question for Brian regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics you would like more information on, please post a comment on this blog or send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.
July 11, 2011
New OEM Parts, Refurbished, and Aftermarket Parts. What’s the difference?
Posted by marketpoint under Uncategorized | Tags: aftermarket parts, aftermarket printer parts, compatible printer parts, compatible toner, genuine, Kevin Gumpp, LaserJet, Market Point, New printer parts, OEM, original equipment manufacturer, printer consumables, printer parts, printer parts distributor, Printers, reconditioned, refurbished, remanufacturered, TCO, Third party printer parts, toner, total cost of ownership |1 Comment
In today’s competitive office equipment market it’s vital to make the cost for repairs of equipment as low as possible to make it reasonable to fix vs. selling a new machine. Servicing a small to midsize machine is definitely more profitable then selling a new machine. Therefore, everybody is searching for parts and consumables that are high quality and sold at a low cost. Large manufactures are more interested in selling new machines with lower cartridge yields realizing that they will make their money selling consumables for the product vs. selling parts. If you try buying parts from most manufacturers you soon realize the parts, if available, cost half the value of the machine. In this article I will discuss the difference between the variety of parts and consumables that distributors are providing so when you decide to make a purchase you have a better understanding of what you are getting for you dollar.
The Problem
Unlike with office equipment manufacturers, manufactures in other fields receive their profits when they sell new equipment or products and they see minimal future profits from that product; so the price stays pretty consistent and, really, there are only a few large manufactures making the product, which keeps the price relatively stable.
Office equipment manufactures have closely watched as consumable profits have sky rocketed for giants like HP. Major manufacturers that specialized in other electrical equipment are making the change to join this highly successful market. The market has become so flooded and competitive that manufacturers are practically selling equipment at a lost to insure that the other more profitable side of the business, consumables, will continue to increase.
I was servicing a machine the other day that I believed was a $1,500 to $2,000 machine. After checking the price on the main board and seeing that it listed at $650 I decided to find out what the machine sold for to present my customer with their options. What I found was that the machine sold for only $700 on the manufacturer’s website. Needless to say, I called into the manufacturer’s support to see if I could find a more cost effective solution only to have the tech support representative tell me straight up that the manufacturer sells this machine at a lost to compete in the market place. After seeing that cartridges, four used, sold at around $200 a piece it became obvious were the money was being made. At that point, my only option was to start searching for a refurbished board, which was available for $250 from a parts distributor. In the end, the machine wasn’t repaired but it was yet another example of the trend that is happening to all of us techs trying to repair office equipment. Frequently, the cost of the repair exceeds the perceived value of the machine and the repair is not made.
The Solution
The demand is still there for parts and repairs. Actually, the demand has increased because service companies and users are searching for other, cheaper sources than the manufacturer for parts and consumables. Fusers, Preventive Maintenance Kits and feed rollers have become easy to replace and a lot come with instructions for installation. Service manuals are easily found on the Internet, and due to the lower cost of machines, end users have become more comfortable with trying to fix machines themselves. They figure at the point of being broke, what do they have to loose? If they can’t fix it they will buy a new machine. It’s not like in the old days where the machines cost a few thousand dollars and they didn’t want to cause further damage by trying to fix it themselves.
Parts and consumables vendors are popping up all over the place. Parts from manufacturers that once were impossible to find are becoming more available. The pricing continues to drop on parts as the competition increases and the quality of aftermarket parts is improving. That’s the good news. The bad news is that there really are no standards to which these companies are being held to. Everybody is telling you pretty much the same thing, “We are selling you the best quality product at the lowest cost. We tested it so we will show you our results. Read our comments from our satisfied customers.”
These classic phrases don’t always mean too much if you’re reading it on that company’s website. Week after week we get calls on imaging problems and feed problems related to inferior parts used in machines. There are a large number of companies selling a good product but it’s important to understand some key words before you start dealing with them and deciding to make a purchase.
OEM Products
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. Another keyword used a lot for this category is “genuine”. Pretty much this is top of the line. OEM parts and supplies come from the manufacturer who makes the product. They’ve been specifically tested and designed to allow your machine to run at peak performance with the least amount of failure. The upside is you know exactly what you’re paying for. The downside is, generally, these items cost the most. The key here is to shop around. Large parts distributors and/or authorized resellers and service providers usually are the best sources. Parts distributors buy in large quantities from the manufacturer, giving them significant price breaks and authorized service providers usually buy from these distributors at discounted prices. So, typically the larger the company the better the deal which, in the long run is good because these companies have reputations to keep and most likely policies and guidelines are set in place to make sure customer satisfaction is at its highest level.
Aftermarket or 3rd Party Parts and Consumables
Typically this means a new product but not made by the original equipment manufacturer. On some machines new parts from the manufacturer have now become obsolete, certain parts were never supplied, or the market is so great that parts were made to compete with the manufacturer. These are parts made to work in place of the OEM parts, at a lower cost, with hopefully close to the same quality.
Reconditioned and Refurbished
These are two terms that aren’t clear or consistent and depending on a company’s practices can actually mean very little with regards to quality. Reconditioning or refurbishing can range from taking a part out of a junk machine, putting it in a plastic bag, and shipping it out the door. Or from testing the part, replacing worn electrical components, replacing worn mechanical items like gears and rollers, updating firmware, re-testing the part, packing it into a static controlled bag, and leaving install and return tips inside the box to verify the equipment is handled right.
When considering reconditioned or refurbished parts, verify with your supplier what you will actually be getting. Do they do their own work? Do they rebuild using OEM parts? What kind of warranty do they have on their parts?
Compatible and Remanufactured
Mainly used to describe toners and drums but is also used to describe fusers. Pretty much these terms can mean all new parts but in most cases the majority of the items are new and the product has been rebuilt with quality in mind. Typically you get what you pay for. The better built products usually cost more because more parts are being replaced to make it as reliable as possible. Some companies have two versions: Remanufactured items with either OEM parts or with aftermarket parts. I typically go with OEM parts because at least you know that some of the parts used are the best quality items available so the success rate should be higher.
Understanding the True Cost of Non-Genuine
Consider, when using refurbished or aftermarket product, what happens if the part you get is DOA? Some of my customers are about two hours round trip from our store so it’s especially important to make sure a repair is done right the first time to avoid extra travel expenses and technician time. If an OEM part doesn’t cost too much more it could be in your best interest to sell an OEM part in these situations. With refurbished parts, in general, you’re going to get more defective parts right out of the box than with OEM parts. The main thing here is to inspect the first few parts you get in.
With fusers, check the film and pressure roller to see the quality of parts your vendor is using. Check for new gears, bushings, and a clean overall product. I’m pretty picky. I would say that I’ll find problems with about two out of ten fusers. Usually you’ll have the old unit, which you are replacing, to take parts out of. Most times the defects are quite simple to fix, like a broken exit guide on a 4200 fuser, and rather than calling in for a new replacement fuser, I typically just replace the broken guide with one from the old unit and move on to avoid a return visit and to save the customer’s impression of our company. Still if you do find defects, let your vendor know so they can resolve these issues. Again most companies are labeling their parts so they can go back and see when it was refurbished, who did it and what exactly was replaced.
[Editors Note: Failure rates of reman/refurb products are generally 5-10 times higher than with that of OEM products. Print quality, user satisfaction, and useful life are all reduced when non-genuine products are used. When calculating the true cost you must consider your customer, your technician, and your company’s reputation.]
Exchange or Outright
This just indicates whether or not a core needs to be returned. There is no difference in the parts. With the exchange you get an item at a reduced price because you return the old item that you are replacing to the supplier so they can restore it and resell it. Buying parts on exchange is environmentally friendly and helpful to others as you continue to provide low cost parts for customers in the future.
Who to buy from?
The key here is to check your sources. Google the supplier and see what other sources have to say about them and their product. Do they have a website? Is their website easy to navigate and is pricing right on the website? Are phone numbers and addresses easily found? If you call the place do you get someone right away? Are they easy to understand and have a clear knowledge of what they are selling? What are their return and warranty policies? Are they relatively close to you? How long will it take to get your product? Ask what the difference is between the different types of parts and how they are put together. If they do their own work and do a good job they typically don’t have a problem sharing this information with you. Do they have a service department and tech support? If they have techs then they have someone on their end complaining when parts don’t meet their expectations.
The biggest thing I can say is to start small. Don’t pick someone and decide to fill up your stock room with inventory. Use them for a few months to see how parts work, how billing is handled, and how replacements for defective parts are taken care of. If you have any doubt move on to the next provider and see what they can do.
It took me about six years to finally decide on a reliable, cost effective supplier for our HP parts. Don’t be afraid to voice your opinion. If you’re unsatisfied let them know and see what they do to resolve the issue.
My Opinion
I’m personally not a big fan of aftermarket or third party feed rollers. In the past I’ve had too many issues with them myself. Feed rollers provide a vital roll in the main operation of the machine. I’ve taken on several new customers who have been dissatisfied with their previous service provider based on the fact that they were installing poorly made aftermarket rollers, and cheaply refurbished, over priced fusers. So beware, aftermarket products can result in lost customers. A few extra dollars can go along way in your company’s reputation.
In the past I was always against third party toners but in recent years I’ve seen a drastic improvement in quality across the whole market place. As I said before, you typically get what you pay for. I typically go for something in the middle of the price range and stick with one or two brands that I can count on. I will say though that ink, color toners, and solid ink stick third party products are still far away from being close to the quality of OEM products. If you care about your machine, image quality, and avoiding unwanted service calls then avoid putting third party color products in your equipment.
Refurbished fusers, feed assemblies, and electrical components bought from some of the larger parts distributors are the best they ever have been. Many provide a 3 or 6 month warranty on their products. A few years ago most rebuilt fusers would not make it to their full 200,000 duty cycle. Now most are meeting or exceeding that count.
Parts like the HP P3005 main boards are being reconditioned and updated making them more reliable than the parts being manufactured by HP and at a lower cost.
The future looks promising for refurb and aftermarket parts. Just be cautious when trying out a new source. A little investigating will go along way. The nice thing that I’ve found is that a lot of the large distributors selling reconditioned parts are putting stickers on them for warranty purposes. I like them because it is easy to tell when servicing a machine that another company has serviced who they were buying their parts from and how well the part held up in that machine. It can tell you a lot about your competition and their company practices.
Conclusion
Buying aftermarket, refurbished, or remanufactured parts and consumables can be a risky venture. Having a great service team with skilled technicians, customer service, and quick response can only go so far. If the parts you install require repeated visits because of quality issues then everything you have done up to that point is a waste of time.
With a little research you can greatly improve your chances of supplying the best quality item to your customers. Try to find a company close to yours so getting in items doesn’t take more than a couple of days. Once you’ve settled on a company get to know their practices. That way, if a customer questions your pricing, you can point out the advantages of your product vs. some of the others available.
When dealing with reconditioned or aftermarket parts it’s typically best to avoid the cheapest product out there. If the supplier can’t inform you of how their product is refurbished or tested then move on to the next company. Start small. Avoid making large purchases without first testing a few items in the field.
Hopefully this article has given you some insight on the differences in parts and suppliers to help you know what questions to ask and what to look for before you make your purchases.
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Kevin Gumpp is a certified printer technician and freelance writer for Market Point. If you have a question for Kevin regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics you would like more information on, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.