Printer Tech Support Articles



Last week I was called out to work on a HP CM6040 with a light print issue. When I arrived onsite I printed a few test pages and it became obvious that they were having problems with the black toner or image drum.

Today we’ll tackle this light print situation. It is not covered in the service manual and I believe, with the design of the machine, this could easily be a common issue.

Troubleshooting

The first thing to do when troubleshooting light print issues is to isolate the problem. Is it happening in all colors or just one? To find out, print some test pages; the diagnostic page and print quality (PC) troubleshooting pages are the best for looking at individual colors and comparing them to one another. However, you should also print the configuration, demo, supply usage, and Error Log pages to get a better understanding of what is going on with the machine’s history and usage.

Below is where to find the Print-Quality troubleshooting pages, for example.

Print-quality-troubleshooting pages

Use the built-in print-quality-troubleshooting pages to help diagnose and solve print-quality problems.

1. Scroll to and touch Administration.

2. Scroll to and touch Troubleshooting.

3. Touch PQ Troubleshooting.

4. Touch Print.

In the case of the machine I was working on the test pages showed me that the customer was experiencing light print in the black toner or image unit. All the supplies were at least half full or more and the black toner and drum unit had just been replaced. Also, the error log showed that it was getting 54.14 Errors. This error is not in the service manual but through deduction of similar errors it means the printer is experiencing problems with the black toner sensor output.

I pulled the black drum out and checked the toner sensor window. I noticed that the image unit had no toner in it, which would explain why the machine believed it had a toner sensor issue. The toner cartridge read full but the drum unit was showing that there was no toner in it. So I knew there was a problem with the toner supply getting into the drum unit.

Solution

On top of the drum unit, behind the hole where the toner falls into the unit is a white plastic piece with four arms. On the bottom of the toner is another white plastic piece with four arms. When the toner is inserted in the machine the toner cartridge depresses a black piece of plastic around the white plastic arm on the drum unit, unlocking it. The arms on the toner and drum mesh together and it rotates the white arm on the drum unit clockwise, opening the hole on the drum unit so toner can fall in from the toner cartridge.

The white plastic piece on the drum has four arms. Each time the arm is turned it either opens or closes the hole. Somehow, the arm on the drum had been rotated so it was in the open position when the toner was not installed. Therefore, every time the customer installed the toner they were actually closing the hole on the drum, not opening it.

To solve this problem remove the drum unit and check whether the hole opening is open when you remove it from the machine. If so, it is in the wrong position. Press down the black plastic surrounding the white plastic arms and rotate them so the hole is closed. If you need a reference point remove one of the other drum units in the machine to see how they are positioned. Once you have the pieces situated correctly re-install the drum unit into the machine.

This procedure will not fix the light print problem immediately. After re-starting the machine the sides of the image were improving but after a few copies the print quality started to decline again, so I knew I had to get more toner into the drum unit.

While this machine does have motor test that runs the toner motors, unfortunately it doesn’t run for a long period of time like on some other machines. What I ended up doing was running about 4 or 5 full calibrations. In this state the machine is running for a long period of time and running the toner motors. After, the fourth or fifth time the black toner was restored so I ran the calibration one more time to be sure, then put it under some large runs to make sure the quality stayed the same.

After running a few hundred test prints everything seemed to be working the way it should be and the machine was printing consistently with no quality issues. I see this as a potential issue with these machines and I can’t believe I’m the only one that will run it this problem. It’s not included in the service manual as a possible solution to a light print problem.  I hope this helps others resolve light print issues.

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Kevin Gumpp is a certified printer technician and freelance writer for Market Point. If you have a question regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics for which you would like more information, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.


In the past few months I’ve run into several HP machines that have been having issues on networks. In each case it hasn’t had anything to do with the functionality of the machine.

Network Setup Issues
Network setup is not normally any problem for network administrators, printer techs or employees with a little background experience in networks.  But, for others, network setup can be the cause of printer problems if the network setup instructions aren’t followed precisely.

Just about any machine you buy comes out of the box setup for DHCP or BOOTP installation. When the printer or multifunction device is first plugged into the network these two configurations allows your machine’s network adapter and your server to gather information from each other and the

However, if you don’t change the DHCP or BOOTP setting to manual after initial setup then the printer or multifunction device can change its IP address if turned off then back on or after a period of time. Most of the time if a customer calls me and says they periodically have to reinstall their printer for it to work then this is the first thing I look at. This tells me the printer is functioning fine but it keeps changing the IP address. On laser machines, printing the configuration page usually shows the setup setting for your IP address on the jet direct page. On inkjet machines this page is usually on the network report page in the reports menu.

Slow Printing or No Printing
In this example I’m talking about a customer calling in to say it takes 5 to 10 minutes to print a document. Sometimes it prints fine, other times it takes several minutes to print, and often times the machine doesn’t print at all or says processing for a minute or two but then returns to a ready state.

Frequently this situation is the result of bad packets.

Whenever troubleshooting network print issues the first thing to do is to print the network configuration information. The two main things to look for are the IP address information and the packet information.

The IP address information is noted above.  The packet information will have a list of sent, received, uni-cast and bad packets. What I’ve seen in several calls these last few months are lots of bad packets. Having one or two bad packets is nothing unusual. Under normal circumstances I never see the number of bad packets get over 10.  If your showing anything over 10 you probably are experiencing network communication issues. This problem can be a result of the network adapter in your device, the cabling, router, hub, or server.

To troubleshoot, first try another cable or if nearby, another network wall outlet. The most common problem point is the hub. Get your network administration to switch the machine to another port or hub to further troubleshoot.

Usually a new cable or switching hubs corrects the problem. However, if the problem continues, it could indicate an issue with the formatter and/or jetdirect. Obviously, replacing the jetdirect or adding one to an open EIO slot is cheaper than replacing the formatter so that should be the first setp if you get to this point.

Multiple devices having the same IP address on the network can result in this problem.

Testing For Duplicate IP addresses
1. Print the Network Config Page to get the machine’s IP address
2. Click on the Windows Logo located on the bottom left corner on your computer screen
3. In the run or search box type in cmd or command and press enter which will bring up a black text box (memories of DOS flood back!).
4. At the command prompt type C:\ ping (then the IP address). Example:  ping 192.168.2.102

The IP address will be pinged 4 times. After it has completed it will give a report. The report should say 4 sent / 4 received. If it timed out you have a network communication issue.

To test if you have multiple devices using the same IP, remove the network cable from your printer then ping the address again. This time it should show 4 sent 4 lost and time out after each ping. If it still shows pings back then something else is using the same IP address. Call the network administrator for further troubleshooting.

Jet Direct Issues
Typically, if the EIO jetdirects fail, the network settings page doesn’t print when a config page is printed because the card is not communicating with the formatter. Often the machine will work for a day or two but then it’ll stop working. At that point, turning the machine off — then back on — sometimes keeps it running for a while but eventually it will quit working totally.

Then you’ll need to replace the network card. By now everybody knows the 615 series is junk so that should always be replaced.  Lately, I’ve seen more of the 600 and 610′s going out. The 620′s have come down in price quite a bit so that’s your best bet when replacing EIO cards.

A few months ago I ran into an issue where an HP 5500 kept turning off then back on when print jobs were sent to it. The original jet direct, a 615, had gone bad years ago so they were using an external jet direct 170.  I happened to have an old 5500 laying around so I swapped formatters, firmware, and memory but the problem kept happening. Eventually I installed a 620 in the machine and got rid of the 170 and the problem went away. So even external jet directs can cause issues.

I’m sure there are more network issues I haven’t talked about, such as firmware issues and what not. If you find this article interesting and feel like sharing an experience you have had with network problems please leave a comment below. If you have questions you can also leave those below too.

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Kevin Gumpp is a certified printer technician and freelance writer for Market Point. If you have a question regarding this topic or have any other printer repair related questions or topics for which you would like more information, please send an email to maryp@marketpoint.com.


This past week I had a few calls on these models so I thought I would share some information about these document feeders because they can be found on several different models of machines made in the same time period as these. Below are the two most common issues I find with these units.

Scenario 1 – Not Feeding into the unit
Due to the fact that paper is fed face up through these document feeders, toner, ink, and dirt seem to contaminate the pick up and feed rollers more often than face down document feeders. To clean, open the ADF feed cover, (more…)


This problem is easy to diagnose. The hard part about this repair is that if the fusing assembly needs to be replaced you have to disassemble a lot of the printer.

I was called out the other day on a M2727 that had a line running down the pages. At first I thought it was just a simple cleaning of the glass strip underneath the ADF unit. However, upon arrival I noticed it was doing it on printed pages also. Whenever troubleshooting lines on pages the first step is to isolate the problem. If your printed page from the computer has a line on it then you know you have a problem with the print engine. If the problem doesn’t happen on printed pages but on copied pages then we know it’s related to the optics in the copy unit portion. In the case of this service call it was the print engine.

The first step when troubleshooting lines on the print engine is to (more…)


I’ve found these machines to be among the better color LaserJet printers made. When OEM cartridges are used, I rarely run into problems and these printers require very little maintenance, most of which a customer can handle on their own. I have a few of these machines in the field right now that have over 1,000,000 prints. I believe these machines are well worth keeping around, if possible.

In follow up to Monday’s post, here are a few more troubleshooting tips for the 4700 LaserJet and the 4730 MFP.

HP Color LaserJet 4700 Light Print CMY Color Planes
A recent service called involved a machine that was printing light in all the colors. When I printed a config page I noticed that all the colors seemed extremely light.  The printer error report showed lots of CPR sensor errors and 54.XX halftone calibration errors.

The customer had replaced all the color cartridges (they were using OEM cartridges). Disabling the cartridge check in the diagnostics menu and swapping the cartridges, restoring the print quality settings, running a full calibration, and making sure its toner save was turned off did nothing to change the print quality. I took out the feed assembly under the cartridges and cleaned out the two color plane registration and density sensors. Once again, nothing changed on the print quality.

As a last resort I performed a NVRAM RESET (more…)


Brian has talked about this briefly in an earlier post on this blog (see it here) but since I ran into this problem on a few machines recently I thought I would elaborate on this problem. On most machines the primary charge roller is located in the print cartridge so when you replace the cartridge you replace the charge roller. In Lexmark and Kyocera printers the charge roller is separate from the print cartridge; therefore, it doesn’t get replaced as often and has more opportunity to cause print related problems.

The charge roller puts a charge on the drum before the image is written to it. If the charge roller has too much build up or debris, like label glue, gets on the surface then the part of the drum unit that area touches doesn’t get properly charged and spots or gray background will result.

On Lexmark machines the charge roller is easily seen by removing the print cartridge and looking up in the cavity of the machine. It will be a light tan roller about a foot in length. The one I saw on the T630 I was working on looked OK but  (more…)


A few months ago I serviced a HP LaserJet P3005 for a third party company. While servicing the machine for a paper jam issue I noticed that it was printing extremely light and every time I turned it off and back on, upon reboot  it gave me an 11.XX internal clock error. The internal clock error was pretty simple. That’s the formatter board.

The light print, though, threw me for a loop. The machine had an OEM cartridge, toner density all the way up, and not in toner save mode. The customer said it was always like that so they had no issue with it. I told them that to fix the clock error they would have to replace the formatter and possible either the ECU or formatter to fix the light print.

Fast forward a few months (more…)


If you have replaced the fuser in one of these printers and now there is a rough, vibrating noise from the rear of the printer, change out the gear kit [part #CB414-67923]. If that does not resolve the noise problem you’ll need to also change out the fuser drive assembly [part #RM1-3746].

By replacing the drive assembly, the gear kit and the fuser at the same time, it keeps all the gears at the same pitch, eliminating vibration and noise.
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This HP printer tip courtesy of Bill Raymond, a service technician here at Market Point.


First,change the fuser to see if that fixes the problem.  When replacing the fuser doesn’t fix the problem, check the main drive assembly fuser drive gear for wear. I have seen the teeth on the gear worn down to a point that the gear cannot drive the fuser and it starts bobbing up and down, creating a thumping sound and/or slight grinding noise.

This problem will also cause intermittent paper jams at, or by, the fuser.  The only thing to do at this point is to replace the main drive assembly [part #40X5749].
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This Lexmark troubleshooting tip courtesy of Bill Raymond, a service technician here at Market Point.


We recently received a good question via email. Here’s the Q and Brian’s (our Lexmark Tech Blogger) response.  Any one else have a perspective to share on this problem?  Please post a reply if you can help.

Question:  A number of my customers are still using T63X printers in their insurance and pharmacy businesses.  I have convinced most of them that regular service and genuine Lexmark toner are the answer to longevity and few problems.  I have a T634, 500 sheet, in an insurance office that is just over 350 k pages although it has not had a good service history.  It constantly breaks the spring tab from re-drive assembly redirector 99A1857.  Three so far.  I have replaced the fuser unit with a reman Lexmark unit and checked the flags for jams, the output guide for toner buildup and made sure it is genuinely clean and straight.  Last one lasted 3 months but it did it again.  I have replaced the entire redrive assembly as well as just the redirector part and spring. Well over thirty years in the computer environment so I trust myself but feel I am never too old to learn or teach what I know.  Any ideas on this one?

Response:  You didn’t mention whether it had a mailbox installed so I’m assuming it doesn’t. So….
Since the only time that diverter is used, to the best of my knowledge, is when there is a mailbox installed, and after consulting with my learned colleagues, I have to say that there is some human interaction causing the problem. If there is a paper jam at the back door and the user can’t move the printer to get at it they might be yanking a little too hard in the wrong direction, as end users are known to do….    ;)

If they’re leaning on the re-drive cap the diverter can’t pop loose and either that stop tab or the hook would break off.

Something to look into would be the Diagnostic Menu (page 3-1) and print the error log (page 3-7). It only keeps 12 errors but it should tell you if there have been ‘Jams at Rear Door’.

If it happens to the loaner you put in place you’ll have your proof.

As far as construction of the assembly goes, the placement of the gears for the output rollers in front of the diverter prevent that drive belt from rubbing and causing any damage. The spring isn’t strong enough to break the hook. The hook and tab are protected during removal and installation. When it’s fully activated the diverter is stopped by the re-drive assembly itself so over extension shouldn’t cause the breakage.

Anyone else have any ideas? Thanks!

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